THE latest in Pete Blench's monthly Hereford Times walks takes us to the lovely village of Ewyas Harold, nestling in the vale of the Dulas Brook near the Welsh border in the south-west of the county. See the site of one of England's earliest Norman castles at this village with long ago royal connections.
EWYAS Harold, nestling in the lovely vale of the Dulas Brook in south west Herefordshire, shares a unique historical pedigree with Richard's Castle in the north of the county.
The villages boast the sites of two of England's earliest Norman castles, both built before the Conquest.
The origins of Ewyas Harold's imposing castle mound, now covered in trees, go back further. A defensive earthwork was first established here in the 10th century when Danish invaders were giving the Saxons a hard time.
The castle evolved as a wooden structure and was later remodelled in the Norman motte-and-bailey style in the reign of Edward the Confessor and was mentioned in the Anglo Saxon Chronicle. It gets another mention in the Domesday survey when King William and his nobles were firming their grip on the country.
Ewyas Harold has royal connections. It is not named after famous King Harold - him with the arrow in his eye at Hastings - but with another chap with useful family ties. Ralph de Mantes came over from Normandy in 1041 with his uncle King Edward (the Confessor) and was made Earl of Hereford. Ralph's son Harold left his name on the map.
He founded a Benedictine priory at Dulas as a cell of Gloucester Abbey (now the cathedral). His son Robert moved the priory along the valley to the outer bailey of the castle. The site is behind Mailes butchers, which you pass between 4-5 on the walk. A few humps are the only visible remains.
The monastic settlement embraced the nearby church of St Michael, whose squat 13th century tower by the banks of the Dulas remains a local landmark.
Steeped in history though Ewyas Harold may be it is a village with buzz. It has shops and pubs, churches of several denominations and a shuttle bus, which links with the express service at Pontrilas.
The walker can enjoy an extra buzz - the kind one may experience while roaming unfenced countryside - that 'wide open spaces' feeling. The extensive hilltop common above the village was the remains of the unenclosed 'waste' land of the manor of Ewyas Harold.
The common was valued for generations for grazing and as a source of bracken for animal bedding, for firewood and for its stone quarries, lime pits and springs. Today it is noted for its bird life and wild flowers, including meadow saffron and spotted orchids. It has wonderful views.
You'll see a lot of the common from point 7 - but there is scope to see much more if you wish. It is quite possible to get lost on Ewyas Harold Common - but it is worth the risk. You'll arrive somewhere eventually! The walk over the hill to Dore Abbey is an excellent one. You could link with part of 'Dore Abbey Circular' walk published in the Hereford Times on April 17 or consult the Ordnance Survey map.
l Acknowledgements: history fact-sheet by Brian Smith, Golden Valley Studies Group and 'The History of Ewyas Harold Castle' (available at castle bungalow, proceeds to parish church).
l Elsewhere, I got chatting to Sarah, a farmer's wife. She and her husband have several paths on their land, one close to the house. They welcome walkers but have a plea - be friendly and say hello! "Farmers don't bite," says Sarah.
Rather than have a gateway blocked by a car, a farmer may suggest you park your car in his yard. Sarah says it is always worth asking. She also wanted to underline a key point of the Country Code - please shut the gates.
EWYAS HAROLD CASTLE & COMMON
4.5 miles: moderate
OS Map: Explorer OL13
Buses: X3/X4 Stagecoach, Hereford-Cardiff hourly service via Pontrilas, Mon-Sat.
THE ROUTE
1.Pontrilas Village Centre (bus stop). Pass shop on your right. Continue through village passing turn for Monmouth. Go down around the bend, cross bridge over River Dore at its confluence with Dulas Brook. Cross A465 road with care to footpath sign on opposite side. Continue on gravel track.
2. Bridge over Dulas Brook. Cross over, bear left and continue on track past sewage works. Go through gateway, continue by brook. At field end, cross stile and continue by brook.
3. Footbridge. Cross stile by bridge but don't cross brook. Continue to field. There are two paths. Your path bears half left across field to stile in hedge. Cross over to field graced by large and lovely old apple tree awash with mistletoe. Continue to corner by house, follow track to road. TL, follow road into village centre. Pass Dog Inn, TR past Post Office into churchyard.
4. St.Michael's Church, Ewyas Harold. Look at church or rest awhile on porch seats. Retrace your steps to road, TR over bridge, pass butchers shop, continue out of village for short distance. At footpath sign at the bend go up steps, steep path, more steps.
5. Castle Mound. (Leaflet available at bungalow). Pause to consider the significance of this historic site. From waymarker at entrance to castle meadow continue as shown, passing foot of mound on your right. Follow concrete track through disused farmyard, through gate and past buildings. Go through gate to field, TR to pass barn and bungalow. Bear left to continue around field, stay on bank to go through higher gate at field end. Continue ahead through field of young trees. 'Go through'/climb (fixed) gate at end. TR to cross stile by trough. Go down steep meadow to cross stile in hedge. Cross road, cross stile. Walk downfield bearing right past big oak on left to bottom corner.
6. Footbridge below Weaver's Place. Cross Dulas Brook, TR, TL through gate into field overlooked by house. Walk upfield bearing right to cross stile at end of fence. By entrances continue ahead across gravel track up (possibly overgrown) bank to follow short green lane to
7. Ewyas Harold Common (west). Continue by field boundary on right. At the end TR on main track through bracken ignoring track to right. Continue through the middle of common. At gravel track TR, continue on that.
8. Pond at junction of tracks. Pass pond on right and continue ahead on track to Sycamores etc. At fork bear right to white house (Sycamores). Walk grass path at side of house to stile, cross over, continue. At field end cross stile, go downhill bearing left past the projecting corner of a garden to lowest corner of field between houses. Cross stile, continue.
9. Callowside, road junction. Cross road, walk path at side of house, cross stile and cross field.
10 Callow Hill Wood. Go through gate by wood. Bear half right across field to meet familiar path by brook. Retrace your steps to Pontrilas.
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